Home Again

The day started with another neighborhood walk, down another street. The place where people were exercising was actually the "Area Designated for Stateless Refugees" - a park now, but the original Jewish ghetto for Jews who escaped Germany in WWII and went to Shanghai. The Japanese restricted their business and homes to a few blocks, some of which is now this little public park. We saw people doing tai chi, and some just drop their bags, and begin doing a few movements here and there; others are doing it together as a group. Men were sitting on benches playing chinese checker type of game. Some had brought their songbirds out for air. The birds are housed in little bamboo cages, and people bring them out, and hang the cages in the park trees for morning singing - and they were.

As we exited the park, a gentleman walked by and asked if we spoke english. When he found out we were Americans, he cited the good deeds of US in WWII in China. This is something that everyone seems to have learned, as both several of the tour guides also made reference to this piece of history. Anyway, the man said he'd walk with us around the block, and see that we got back to our hotel. He discussed some of the sites along the way - pointed out the internet cafe that I'd wish I'd known about; the price of food in the market as compared to our hotel gift shop; and shared that he is "off job", 55, an engineer with bridge building crane experience. Wife works in textile factory. 21 yr old daughter is in college studying German. He offered to show us all over Shanghai, and when he mentioned his daughter's coin collection, and did we have any US coins, I began to figure out that this was an independent tour guide looking for a day job. But, since we were leaving in 1/2 hour, the best we could do was give him some coins. I took his pix, and gave him a postcard of Col River Gorge; asked him to write his name in my travel journal and then he asked to trade pens, so that he could have souvenir. During this exchange, the lady running the little market emerged and got in on the conversation; smiling, etc. I don't think anyone in China has private business.

Our tour guide got us to the airport early so that we could be first in line to get good seats on the plane. However, the desk was closed. So he sent us off to look around the airport while he stayed with the luggage, having checked with the desk people who said they'd open at 2ish. When we got back at 1:45, not only were they open, but about 100 othe people had lined up and were already getting served. Tour guide made a deal with one person in line that we could go every other one (one of us; one of the ones who lined up after us). That didn't set too well with some of the folks in line, but we worked out. The lady that was somewhat nasty, ended up losing her boarding pass later ... we tried to take no pleasure in that moment. I guess our payback on that was, having asked for two aisle seats, we both got stuck with being assigned the middle seats in the 4 seats mid-plane (another 10 seats across on this one). They ran out of English customs declaration forms, so luckily the man sitting with us was bi-lingual and translated for us, as we filled it out.

Before I complete this travelogue, there is one thing I forgot to mention, and now that I've seen them all, I think I can safely discuss. China is gearing up for the 2008 Olympics, and 2010 World Expo. They are upgrading everything. We passed the Shanghai Kohler showroom today on our way out of town. We ran into very few squatty potties. In most of the places we went to, the biggee landmarks, our hotesl, and restaurants we ate at, all of the airports, western toilets have been installed, and there was toilet paper about 75% of the time. The worst restroom was at the Great Wall (not counting the neighborhood latrine at the home we visited). The best: Shanghai Museum. Given discussions prior to trip, I knew some of you would be interested!

Ok, back home safe and sound. My pedometer tracked at least 30 miles. My suitcase is stuffed to the max. I've been up about 28 hrs getting back, so I am signing off.

Winding Down: A Full Day

Friday: I started the day with a walk about the neighborhood. It was very interesting to see the locals getting ready to start their day. The interior courtyard I could see from hotel room, had about 20 folks doing tai chi from about 6am to beyond 7:30. On the street, many food vendors and many locals buying breakfast tidbits. They thought we were a bit odd wanting to take a picture here and there, but most of them laughed at us and smiled. The morning burrito item looked pretty good - a big cast iron flat round griddle, about 20" in diameter, over a gas fire, spread with pancake batter, on top of that an egg is spread around, throw in some green onions, nuts, other things I can't identify, then when it's done, roll it up around a piece of deep fried baguette looking item. Smelled pretty good. Lots of folks on bikes, and others waiting for their bus. Some women were hanging out their laundry to dry up and down the street. Vendors (for the locals) on one corner, arrived on their pedi-pickups and spread their wares out with locals vying for position and buying.

The Shanghai Museum was full of artifacts dating back some 4,ooo years, and these that were that old were very well made which means there was a lot more history and civilization prior to that. I found the gift shop to be almost as interesting - bunches of book, got a couple that I'll read on the 12 hr plane ride.

The Bund, is Shanghai's version of Waterfront Park to the max. It's more like Chicago or NY's waterfront. Very vibrant, lots of people, great public space. View of river with lots of boat traffice constantly. Hugh skyscrapers across the river, and the various 1930's buildings from the French, German, American and other "concessions". We came back through there tonight with all of the buildings light up - wow!

The Free Market was part of our afternoon experience. This is a huge shopping area in old shanghai, 2-3 blocks, but sort of inside older building. More like an interior courtyard type of area, but also with buildings within that space. All sorts of little shop fronts. Nothing bigger than about 10' by 15'. One woman caught Dianne and I "there is a free art exhibit upstairs...." well, she was so nice, we went. I hope we didn't get scammed... She said the paintings were by Zhao Dong of Xi'an, supposedly some famous painter in the country. We each bought a painting for about $9 and took our sales girls picture. It didn't help that our guide, who is from Xi'an, had never heard of the artist. But, the experience was fun.

And, as for bargaining, the "2-second pause" that Mark demonstrated before we left - that works great! You make an offer, if they say no-no and counter, you work to your bottom line, and that's unacceptable, you say ok, turn and slowly walk out the store, hestitating ever so slightly. Usually they say during that moment of hestitation, "ok-ok" and you go back, and are in a good position to get the item for the price you wanted.

We also went into Yunan Garden, which is also within this area. It is a HUGE classical garden. Very beautiful plants, flowers, trees, pavilions, etc. Some of the trees are marked - 400 yr old, 300 yr old, 100 yr old, etc. And the koi - active and big.

Tonight was the chinese acrobatic show - contortionists (yikes!), one guy balanced 22 benches on his head for a total of 250lbs, flying motorcylcles (5 cylclists in a big wire cage driving way too fast around in circles, and upside down. And so much more. And outside on our way to the bus, one last vendor selling fans - 4 for a $1. Off to the airport tomorrow. Then to develop 21 rolls of film. Don't worry, you won't have to look at them all, just the ones I get developed. :-)

Last Call

Shanghai.
Yesterday, Suzchou. Visited the Master of Nets Garden, the quintessential Chinese garden. Suzchou is sister city to PDX, and built the Portland Chinese garden. The street of shops reminded me of New Hope, PA, or Pike St Market with a sea of humanity on bicycles coming at you up and down the street. There is so much building going on in every city we have visited, and Suzchou was no different. They are protecting the older part of town, lots of canals (the "venice" of China) and little lakes, and are building a newer part of town in partnership with Singapore. A huge public park with art, dragon boats, music, grass, walks, trees on their big lake. This is not the quaint old china that one thinks about before coming here.

Every meal has been huge - we are served lots of food. The guide is the "country host" and part of this is a cultural thing, serving food to guests as a welcoming gesture. But there is so much, we are feeling badly about leaving food behind. We asked Mark, the guide, what happens to the extra? Can you give it to the poor? Can you feed animals with it? But, no. It gets thrown out. He said, not to worry. It wouldn't be so bad, but most of us remember hearing "Finish the food on your plate, think of all the starving kids in China..." or something like that.

Our hotel (The Ocean Hotel) is close to the Bund - the big waterfront area of Shanghai, another open space for walking, etc. Our room looks out on smaller one and two story homes, very old. And interspersed are skyscrapers. It is an odd mixed use of real estate. They are tearing down the old as fast as they can and building more skyscrapers. My historic preservation packrat wants to get out there among the buildings being demolished and bring home a window frame or two...

The open door policy has changed China in the last 10 years, and if I am to come here again, even in 1 or 2 years, it will be very different.

Signing off. This computer is 2 yuan per minute!

Terrific Terrarcotta

Yesterday: Terracotta warriors! Awesome! What a huge undertaking! The pictures won't do this justice. All of the warriors and horses were broken and burned by another emperor in revenge. So any of the figures that you see in pictures have been reconstructed. A giant jigsaw puzzle!

We also stopped at a local farmer's home. They are an older couple, 60ish. Live with their 2 sons and dau-in-law. They chose to dig into the hillside behind their home and create semi-subterranean rooms - one bedroom, a storage room, and a utility room. The bed is made out of mud/plaster with a chamber underneath for a fire which keeps the bed nice and toasty in the winter. The fire vents to the outside. All very nice and neat.

Xi'an also is foggy and hazy. But, then all of the towns we have been to so far are foggy and hazy. In Beijing is was "dust from the Gobi desert", in Chongqing is was "steam rising from the confluence of 2 rivers in town", in Xi'an it's "dusty". If it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck, it's a duck - isn't that how the saying goes? It looks like pollution to me.

So far, Xi'an has been more interesting in terms of the local flavor. More variation on the local apartment architecture; trees all over the city, things like that.

Ok, gotta go catch my bus for the airport. We fly to Shanghai.

Dancing in the park

Today we experienced the Temple of Heaven in Beijing. Really neat - this is a people's park, where many local seniors hang out. There was ballroom style dancing (at 10am) in the courtyard; individuals and couples exercising (tai chi and other); and along the long corridor (really long), there were groups of people, usually seniors being central to the group, but with younger people too. They were playing cards, or hacky sack (yes seniors!), or singing folk songs, or giving crocheting lessons, and so forth. The entire corridor was taken up with people sitting on the wide rail in groups doing their thing. One of the more entertaining was an older hippie looking guy playing the Chinese 2 string guitar, and his rythym section was a woman on snare drum, and another on a hand drum. He saw American looking types in the crowd and began a medley of tunes - Star Spangled Banner, Oh Susanna, Jingle Bells, Edelweiss, Waltzing Matilda and others! On a 2 string guitar - it was recognizable, if a little screechy. He did switch to saxophone for one number. He had quite a crowd gathered round. When he stopped, I put $ in his guitar case, and he smiled, and shook my hand. The rest of the Temple of Heaven (the historic part) was also very interesting - more pictures you'll have to see.

The vendors were intense at the south gate of the Temple - where we exit and leave. I did succumb to a couple of books that vendor was willing to sell 1/2 price once I walked away and he followed me for 2 blocks. I asked the tour guide about the vendors, and he said some of them are "off job" and this is the only way they can make a living right now. Some have kids in college, and don't really like doing this work. They are unable to help us bargain, as it puts them into an awkward situation "are you Chinese or American" type of complaint. So then I felt bad about the book ... It was a matter of $1.75.

More landmark renovation going on. Here they were working on a brick wall, faced with cement or plaster type material. Replacing it. I took pix, because I just know that you are all as fascinated as I am with historic preservation stuff. But, seriously, Nat'l Trust for Historic Pres should be teaming up with China Focus. :-)

We are now in Wuhan, a city of 8M people. Another boomtown in the rising Chinese economy. They have a Wal-Mart Supercenter in the middle of their shopping district! But, no Starbucks - yet.

Our meal tonight included things like - fried cabbage, kung pao type chicken, beef stir fry with snow peas, egg drop soup, a fish (whole), squash, tempura eggplant, rice cake, corn meal egg shaped cake. There was one dish that everyone thought looked a tad gray and surmised it was fish, but not too sure. I gave it a try, and so did another woman next to me. We declared it to be vegetable, starchy root of some sort. That didn't encourage anyone else to eat it, however. Turned out to be lotus stem - something none of us had come across before.

We get on the boat tomorrow, and start cruising. While I don't expect to find a compute on board, there will be massuese, sauna, and demonstrations or activities about local culture.


It is now 10:30 pm and this computer is costing me one Yuan (12.8 cents) per minute, so off I go to bed. The accommodations are very nice - better than some places I've stayed in US.

The good news is that I have found that I can type on the blog. The bad news is that I can't see my blog, and I can't see any comments anyone may have made. The computers seems to have a filter that won't let you get to actual blogs.

My feet are aching!

At the Great Wall, Badaling area today. There is a nice sloping ramp for about 50 feet, and THEN the steps start. Big ones, little ones, uneven ones, and steep ones. Well, most of them are steep. Seems like 45 degrees on the way up, and 90 degrees on the way down. The wall starts out wide enough for 4-5 on each side, and then narrows down to one person going up and one coming down. Spectacular experience - multi-cultural huffing and puffing on up the wall. We didn't get over the top of the hill, but had enough of an experience to say we were there.

My camera batteries died yesterday at the Summer Palace, just as we were visiting with Luo Zheng, a professor at university (he said), in art. He was practicing what he called 'behavioral art' - writing in Chinese on the sidewalk with pens that were 5 feet tall. One end held a water bottle, siphoning water thru a 3/4 inch pvc pipe with foam calligraphy brush on the other end. One in each hand. Wrote, in English, forward and backward, upside down. Ambidextrious. I had him write in my journal, so I can show you what he was doing. Anyway, at the Great Wall, in one of the little shops, they had my batteries! Yeah!

This morning, our unscheduled tour (ie on your own) was to a neighborhood market - looks like a flea market set up, but selling produce, clothing, kitchen utensils and so forth. Some of the fruit and veggies I had not seen before. Must have been a hundred vendors set up by 7 am. Our other unscheduled tour was to a local supermarket about a block from the hotel. Sort of like a Freddies. The prices were pretty darn good! And they had Dove bars that I haven't seen before - chocolate, not soap, of course.

The building here in Beijing is off the chart. We had a long ride back from the Ming tombs today, getting caught in rush hour traffic. I saw over 50 cranes building skyscrapers, and that's when I started counting. I saw 20 of them from one location. This town will never be the same. The growth seems to be in a frenzied state. And yet, not everyone is experiencing the growth, but we only see a little of that being contained as we are on a tour. But, our tour guide did talk about the economic changes; downsizing of state run factories; lots of people being "off job" in over 30 years of working for same company; high taxes - well, some of it sounded familiar.

Yesterday we walked all over the Forbidden City, and Summer Palace. Stunning architecture. They are gearing up for the Olympics in 2008. All of the buildings at FC were under going renovation. The workers on the roofs replacing tile, and those repaving brick pathways were more of a photo op to me than some of the static building images. Lots of pics you'll have to sit through!

See you later.

Finally...

Off we go!

Leaving soon. Both cats just drank out of toilet. I think they are getting ready to partay.

Starbucks Shanghai, here I come.

Travelin' Dough

Got a neat surprise in the mail - Y300 Yuan - bon voyage present!

We have language lesson tomorrow from Mark, one on Thursday from Eliza, and cultural recommendations from Barry on Friday. All set to go!

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Hi I get in your blogger, sounds like you are really ready for the trip.

Weathering Time

If you want to know what the weather is like in china, use the China Weather link. We will be in Beijing, Wuhan, Yichang, Xi'an, Shanghai. The time of day is about 8 hours behind PT. So when it's midnight here, it's 4pm there. However, it is also the next day ... so you could say it is about 16 hrs ahead of PT. Here is a link that you can use to find out what time it is in China Go down to the bottom of that page, click on the link to find out a comparison of your time to China time.