Khan el Khalili

Tiny, teeny shops line the Khan el Khalili Market's narrow paved and unpaved lanes which seem to spread out over a 1 sq mile area. If you missed getting souvenirs anywhere in Egypt - you can find them here. Our guide said that locals will go here for gold jewelry, that this is the place in Cairo to get good deals. Once you finger an item at a shop, you have engaged the relationship and negotiation process. "What you looking for?" "I'll make you a good discount." "Where you from?" "Are you happy today?"

I asked if he had dried "red" peanuts that we see at cafes, and he said "Yes!" and then disappeared down the street. Typically, if they don't have it at their store, they know who does have it, usually "my brother's shop" and they bring it to you and get to share in the profit. He brought back a 1/4 kilo and offered me sample and once we agreed it was the right product, then the quibble over the amount. He started at 50 LE - I had paid 30 in Aswan. After haggling and talking we got it down to 30 ... and "what about 5 for me?" If you begin to waver on the deal, "Oh you break my heart" or "It's my birthday, you have to buy today" or "My queen, how can you do this to me" or ... there are a number of variations. When you go to the next shop and get out one of their lines before they do, they smile and again, the relationship and negotiation can begin.

I spied some scarves I wanted in a little store, the owner invited me in and then called for someone who could communicate with me. I tried the few words I know of Arabic, and this always gets a smile and "you know arabic" and off they are to giving you a better discount and helping you learn a new word or two. However at this store, the kid in the parka (they think that 70F is cold) spoke better Spanish than English so we exchanged a few words and conducted the bargaining in Spanish.

This is the huge chandelier in the Alabaster Mosque, built by Mohammad Ali in the 1500s when he conquered Egypt. He is considered the father of modern Egypt - modern meaning not the pharohs anymore. The doors and windows to the mosque were open and their was a stiff breeze blowing which caused the little glass pieces to tinkle together and make a very nice sound in the big space.

This is the Alabaster Mosque, so called because the inside prayer hall is covered with white and pink alabaster panels, pillars, door and window trim. The architecture and islamic design features were quite something to see. We took our shoes off before entering the outer courtyard where the fountain for abulations is located. The interior prayer hall is covered with well worn carpets. Men prayer in the huge open area. Women have a smaller section in the back which is separated by a curtain during prayer.

Everywhere we went, including the mosque children would practice their English on us. Mohammad and his friend Ahmed saw me and said "hallo, where you from?" and after a bit I said let me take your picture upon which most of their class wanted to get in on the act.

All for now.